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This week's column
 

May 25th, 2006
Bread & Sons Bakery
Write a comment on this article !
Read members’ comments [11]

Grain warfare
Lucy Rest
 


You won't find Made in China anywhere on this loaf held by Bread & Sons Bakery's Y'aov D'Vaj
photo: Aaron McKenzie Fraser

Accessible organics just around the corner

So, Walmart is going to offer organic food. And if you believe what cranks like The Globe and Mail's Margaret Wente have to say about it ("Puh-leez, it's food artisan, not farmer," May 20, 2006) we're heading for full-scale class warfare as the Whole Foods-shopping food snobs in posh neighbourhoods prepare to do battle with the Walmart-shopping riffraff as they gain access to organic mac and cheese.

Puh-leez indeed. What about the middle ground? What about people who want to eat healthy, safe, affordable food while supporting local farmers? Isn't it better to avoid big-chain stores of any sort and go get the organic goods from local businesses that support local farmers instead?

Any shop like that is a welcome addition to my neighbourhood. As well as the signs pointing to their food allergy-friendliness and shunning of tran-fats and other nasties, Bread & Sons Bakery on Bank Street has a map of Eastern Ontario on the wall, marking the locations of the farms where the organic grains they bake with are grown and milled. All for about the same prices as a non-organic bakery.

But taste is the bottom line. Most basic of all is bread. Except for the baguette, B&S loaves (whole spelt, multigrain, whole rye, sourdough and hazelnut-prune) are of the dense, wholesome variety. They made great toast, but it was hard to get anyone in our little tasting party interested in plain old bread when a box of fresh, still-warm pastries and a pot of coffee awaited.

Gooey whole-wheat cinnamon buns and
flakey, buttery turnovers stuffed with chunks of cooked apple and dusted with sugar were the clear favourites. Croissants, both plain and chocolate filled, were all-butter and not bad at all, but more bready like brioche. Scones came in interesting flavours like coffee and cardamom, but everyone found them too heavy and floury in texture to live up to their fine taste.

As for other sweet treats, wheat-free brownies were moist and chocolatey and the chickpea-pistachio and vegan oatmeal-chocolate chip cookies were also hits. Fresh orange commingled with gooey dates and the nutty addition of millet grains made their wheat-free, sugar-free date square the best I've ever tasted.

For lunch there were sandwiches (hummus or goat's cheese) and savoury pastries too. The deliciously salty boreka was a sesame-studded, feta-filled puff that I could eat again and again.

What I most wanted to sample was the pizza, but deadlines and schedules meant I wouldn't be able to pick it up in time. So I had Slinky buy a slice and call me.

"Gorgeous!" he yelled into his mobile as he walked and munched. "Thin crust, not too much tomato sauce, more cheese than you'd like but really good, and nice simple veggie toppings like caramelized onion or olives."

There you have it. I wonder what Margaret Wente eats for lunch?

BREAD & SONS BAKERY
195 BANK STREET
230-5302
COFFEE, TEA, BAKED GOODS, SANDWICHES, SOUPS $1-$3.50


 
 



Write your comment on this article!


Delicious!  
 
Bread and Sons makes the best pizza in Ottawa. Each day I brought back a couple of their slices to work, someone would comment on the aroma, and the appearance of my pizza. Now I take orders, and we buy two or three larges for our group every Friday. And most of my co-workers would normally be attracted to the meat-lovers sort of pizza. They are all converts now, though.

As mentioned by others, the staff actually seem to glow a little with that elusive contentment we all wish we had in our work lives. They are always very friendly and accommodating.

P.S. If you like your crust thick, or crispy, I'll warn you that you won't get that here. The crust is actually a little too thin, and can make the slices a bit droopy, but the flavour is off the map, far beyond what you'll get anywhere else. Fresh, wholesome, and spiced just right.

Eric Wolf

September 12th, 2008

Very good Apple Turnovers  
 
This staff is beautiful and smiling.
The food is delicious and worth an out of the way stop. Many people stop here when changing buses to purchase lunch for later in the day.
We just stop by for treats!

Lola Crumpet

June 5th, 2008

~Feast or famine~  
 
When I went into baking it was with a very specific intent: I loved the smell of freshly baked bread early in the morning. Ok, so getting up extra early in the morning sucks but I'd argue that that aroma from the oven is well worth the trade-off. Organic or not, to me the real deal breaker was always if the bread was fresh. As a kid I grew up just down the street from an old-fashioned stone oven bakery and the smell would carry right up the block. Good memories. You can argue the pros and cons all you like of what's healthier and from where but for my money the best stuff always comes the small mom & pop shops. There's so substitute for heart and passion in food.

Pedro Eggers
{1 vote}
June 11th, 2006

Premium for Organic Food  
 
If as this article supposes organic bakery goods cost just about the same as non organic, we would all be eating organic breads since we can get less contaminated food with added nutrients for the same price. Regular commercial bakeries would go out of business in a short time. But I must deplore the insistence on using lots of natural fats and sweeteners to make organic food more palatable which overloads the taste buds. I want a healthy body but I also want to keep all my natural teeth as long as possible. For example raisins and dates can easily stick to teeth promoting decay.

Stephen Talko
{11 votes}
May 27th, 2006

Lucy makes a good point about the importance a bakery makes to the neighbourhood  
 
I was chatting with the owner of my local bakery, and he explained that they need to rise earlier than dawn to prepare the early stages of the baking. Few young people are willing to get into the business. And yet I have noticed that craft bakery employees look much more content and energetic than workers at say Loblaws. I think that the ancient practice of making bread has a positive effect upon the human spirit, and well made bread raises the spirits of the purchasers.
I will make a point of visiting this particular bakery since they are taking creative risks.

Karen Mohindra
{13 votes}
May 26th, 2006

Not quite the Glebe  
 
To Bryan Murray:
unless you live pretty far from downtown, you should know that the Glebe stops way before you'd find Bread and Sons -- this lovely bakery is relatively close to the transitway. By the way, try the multigrain bread. It sounds mundane, but is a delicious and organic alternative to your run-of-the-mill bread. You can also pick up their bread at the Herb&Spice on Bank St. (also not in the Glebe).

Jennifer Brebner
{9 votes}
May 26th, 2006

An oasis  
 
Bread and Sons is a like an oasis in a desert of Tim Horton's and fast food joints. The apple turnovers are made with fresh apples, the chocolate roll is made with brussels chocolate. The daily soup made with root vegetables is delicious. For a while they had vegetarian moussaka which made an excellent lunch. Also in the shop is local honey, innuit herbal teas and organic coffees. Sometimes there are free range eggs at an excellent price. If you live or work downtown, it is an inexpensive and delicious place to buy food. If you don't work or live downtown, it is worth the trip to go there. The borekas are delicious hot or cold, but if you warm them up, be careful not to overheat them and, of course, don't use a microwave (the crisp won't be crisp and the feta will melt into the pastry).

Susan Turansky
{8 votes}
May 25th, 2006

 
 
"You won't find Made in China anywhere on this loaf held by Bread & Sons Bakery's Y'aov D'Vaj" what are you trying to say exactly???? WHAT? so shame to have sth "made in china" in your store? Perhaps you will have to be naked in next 10 or 20 years, because you don't want "made in china and you can't find anything else!" People, open your mind!

Michael Song

February 6th, 2009

Great spot for bread !  
 
This is a small cute little place great for your lunch take out, especially if you happen to work downtown Ottawa (not too far from Bank street!). This place score 10 with me, for a pastry and coffee indulgence which has a friendly and relaxed athmosphere. And let's face it, bread like this ones are too much trouble to make them from scratch at home!

Valerie Augier
{1 vote}
May 31st, 2006

Recommended bakery  
 
From my experience, The Bread and Sons bakery is really a great and exciting place to visit, and I don't miss any opportunity to enjoy their wonderful variety of organic breads.
My sons enjoy it as well!

Yariv Gerber
{5 votes}
May 26th, 2006

I'll Be There  
 
This bakery sounds great . Organic breads at regular bakery prices can't be passed up. I'm
into healthy eating so this will be one of my stops while attending The Great Glebe Garage Sale this weekend.

Bryan Murray
{4 votes}
May 25th, 2006


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