The Pantry: As Glebeite as apple pie photo: Matthew Harrison

So far be it for me to come along and start slagging them off for their hours, but come on guys - open weekdays, noon to three o'clock only? What about the rest of us? Do we have to open our own neighbourhood tea rooms?

But honestly, I wouldn't be whinging about not being able to get it on weekends had the food not been so bloody good. Two visits in as many weeks and I've walked away deliciously satisfied both times.

Aside from a set menu of mainly open-faced sandwiches (avocado, tofu, cheese or cream cheese, and tuna - which last time I checked was not a vegetarian food), their shtick consists of a different cooked dish each day, revolving baked goods and desserts, and nutritious-sounding soups - Swiss chard and red lentil one Monday and watercress the next - that, regrettably, I didn't try. (This is the drawback to dining alone, even I can't eat everything.)

Shamelessly eavesdropping on a staff disagreement that was clearly audible over the bustle of the kitchen, I dug into that day's hot dish, a mean veggie lasagne: fluffy ricotta layers and generous spinach complemented by some smoky onion and tomato ragout, topped with a comforting amount of golden-baked yet still slightly stringy mozzarella. Equally good was the lightly dressed side salad of assorted greens, sprigs of dill, cukes, roasted cashews and some tangy red cabbage that was halfway between a slaw and a kraut.

Now usually I don't like muffins, but these looked so good that I couldn't resist a small, freshly baked one for dessert. Moist and cakey with real blueberries (half the b-berry muffins you see these days contain fakes, sad but true), laced with a hint of clove and spread with honey butter, it didn't disappoint.

On my next visit, I decided to give the warm special (a walnut oat burger) a miss and try the sandwiches. There's something so fussily Continental about eating open-faced sandwiches with a knife and fork - I love it. These two were served on soft, freshly baked whole-grain bread, prettily presented with a little apple and veggie garnish. A hint of cumin and a ripe tomato made the avocado half pretty good, but bland in comparison to the zingy tofu "egg" salad - much better than any other I've tried. I don't know what their secret is.

Hearing that dessert was pumpkin pie and freshly whipped cream, once again I could not resist and convinced myself that having it was essential to my story. Unfortunately it was just okay, too much clove in the pumpkin filling for me, and a crust that tasted suspiciously trans-fatty. Shortening, here? Yikes!

Still, this was a small blight on two wonderful, affordable lunches. It's a pity I won't be able to make it down more often, but I and other non-Glebeites should file The Pantry away as a nice place to visit when there are some leisure hours during the week.

THE PANTRY VEGETARIAN TEA ROOM
GLEBE COMMUNITY CENTRE
690 LYON STREET, 233-2784
OPEN MONDAY TO FRIDAY, 12-3 P.M.
ENTIRE MENU $4-$10

 
 

		Write your comment on this article!

A Haven in the Glebe!     To answer the question of who runs the Pantry, it's Carolyn Best. The Pantry was originally opened by Ilse Kyssa. The Pantry serves Organic foods, extremely well prepared and is one of the few places to eat where the owner/chef has a strong level of integrity. Tea...Dessert.....Soup....Main Course.....Sandwiches......all are very well prepared and the ingredients are fresh and bought daily. I know Carolyn personally, she shops and pays quite a price for good quality ingredients, I for one am extremely impressed. If you have not tried the delicious food at the Pantry then I wholeheartedly recommend you go there as soon as you can, it's a little known gem, in the Glebe Community Centre at 3rd and Lyon. Sincerely,
Pamela Kyssa		January 24th, 2009
Great Achievement!     What is great about this place is that it serves up quite decent food and good coffee in order to enriche their community. They should be very proud of this great achievement throughout the years. Eventhough, I've only been there once, and that I am not even from the Glebe, they still made me feel at home. The hours doesn't seem to be a problem for them. Good for them!
Valerie Augier	{14 votes}	November 28th, 2005
Long overdue     Being a (former) long-time resident of the Glebe and Old Ottawa South, I have had multiple occasions to sample the wares at the Pantry - generally during the holiday season or at various craft fairs at the Glebe Community Centre. The food is simply delicious, and well worth planning your schedule around. You won't regret it. Enjoy!
Karlis Bouse	{4 votes}	November 28th, 2005
Walking To A Winter Yummyland.......     The Glebe Community Centre is certainly a bustling centre of actovities, with a range of rummage sales, community meetings, support groups and, as the article above focuses on, a tea room called The Pantry. So many options for Glebeites or others happening by 690 Lyon Street, from 12-3, can all the home cooking comforts that remind them of their childhood and memories of Aunt Sally. The choices sound varied enough to temp the tastebuds of many and the photo reminds me of delights from a bake sale where families compete with each other to see who can make the most delicious cookies or cakes. I wonder who runs The Pantry? If it's volunteers from the community who bring their baked goods in to sell or there's a full working kitchen there that prepares the foods to be ready just before their noon opening? Are they kitchen apprentices that are getting their prep hours in, preparing delicious food for the walk-in crowd and licking their lips while new tastebuds sample their fresh preparations? Whatever the case, the choices sound yummy and not only good enough to eat, but a nice place to take a late morning break from the chaos that is Xmas shopping along Bank Street.
Steve Landry	{23 votes}	November 27th, 2005
Vegan Secrets     Thank you Lucy for the tip on this local delight. My mouth was watering just reading your article. The hours of operation are perfect for the community it serves but unfortunate for the 9-5ers of the city. We really enjoyed the vegetarian buffet at Market Fresh on bank street while it lasted. We made a point of planning our weekend veggie shopping to take in a light brunch/lunch usually after a yoga class or squash game. I certainly will add The Pantry to my list of weekday options and would certainly be interested in hearing about other similar hidden secrets. Thank you
Carol Brochu	{7 votes}	November 27th, 2005
Best Veggie Food     I've eaten here on numerous ocassions, generally when there is a craft show or other event at the community centre. I've never been surprised with just an average meal or service. I think this is the best place to get a vegetarian meal , but it doesn't have a hope n hell because of it's hours and out of the way location. Keep up the good work so you'll still be there the next time I visit.
Bryan Murray	{5 votes}	November 25th, 2005
Oh, Really?     We used to eat here about once a week. Three out of the last four visits I found hair in my food. Sorry, folks, but hair isn't veggie. It's dead.
Lola Crumpet		November 30th, 2005
Hidden gem     I've never heard of The Pantry before, maybe the reason for that is because of the limited hours open - to the community. Unfortunate, it sounds like it would could be an interesting culinary sample. This seems to be the trend however for the veggie resto industry. With these hours I may never get to sample either - I have however listed it as pitstop in for business lunches to check out if in the neighborhood.
Wayne Pagani	{1 vote}	November 25th, 2005

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