All this place appears to be missing is a master chef, or even a real kitchen for that matter. Sounds like quite the oversight, but it isn't really. Most of the food is supplied by a couple of (mainly Russian) caterers around town, while platters of salad, smoked fish, deli meats-anything that can be prepared from the fridge-are done up on the spot, while warm selections are reheated. Maybe that's not ideal, but solid Russian comfort food like dumplings, blini, and soup stands up well. And the formula keeps prices low. Very, very low.
A bit slow on this night. A cool yet friendly Russian dude watching Pet Shop Boys videos (which play nonstop all night, amazing!) is our waiter, bartender and chef for the next couple of hours. He brings some pretzels and a couple of Baltikas (pint-size bottles of refreshing Russian beer, only $4.50), and we order some warm pirozhok as a starter. We spread some Maille on the tasty yeast dough rolls, one filled with cabbage and the other with ground meat, and-yum-they're
A busy Canada Day left them with some items out of stock (savoury Uzbek pastries that I was hoping to try, and our "assorted" fish plate had only one type), but we make the best of it, ordering some delicious blini (like crêpes) and slathering them thickly with sour cream. I don't often get to drink vodka at the dinner table, but some mini flagons of Grey Goose and Moscowskaya in an ice bucket are lovely with our fish plate (good quality smoked salmon, salmon caviar, capers and lemon on a bed of lettuce served with buttered slices of rye) and our pickle platter (I'm a pickle fanatic and this plate doesn't disappoint: mounds of gherkins, sliced dills, eggplant, olives and pickled onions).
I was sort of kicking myself for not getting a salad (the winter salad of beet, potato, carrot, onion, pickle and cucumber in a homemade vinaigrette sounded particularly good), but we decide to eat no more apps and get some dessert instead. There are a tonne to choose from (although I'd rather see fewer options at optimal freshness than a lot of cakes from an icebox). My companion's mousse cake (from Swiss Pastries) is a creamy yet airy concoction of various layers of raspberry flavourings. My "Russian style" Napoleon square is gooey good, but the pastry isn't as flaky as I'd like.
My friend takes advantage of the Wednesday night special with a discounted "Molotov Cocktail." The window says they have the best espresso in town, so I go for it instead. Really great. And apparently they have to buy the beans in Montreal, so their claim may not be far off.
Bill paid and a poster bought, we said a warm goodbye to our new pal. We hope Ottawa's rearguard catches up soon.
AVANT-GARDE BAR AND GIFT SHOP
135 BESSERER STREET, 321-8908
HOT & COLD APPS, DESSERTS $2.45-$14.45
WWW.AVANTGARDEBAR.COM
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