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This week's column
 

July 14th, 2005
Avant-Garde Bar & Gift Shop
Write a comment on this article !
Read members’ comments [12]

Snacks on the vanguard
Lucy Rest
 


Like a Lissitzky poster, Avant-Garde drives a red wedge into the city's bar scene

Avant-Garde raises the bar

A Lissitzky-styled mural on the wall defines the term avant-garde. We often use it for experimental people, works or ideas in art, culture and politics. Why not bars and restaurants too? Live music venue, gift shop and restaurant, Besserer Street's Avant-Garde Bar is two really cool rooms done up in black, red and yellow, a huge bar (to go with a huge drinks list) in front and old Soviet propaganda posters covering the wall. Lucky Ottawa U-ers-there sure wasn't anything like this when I was an undergrad!

All this place appears to be missing is a master chef, or even a real kitchen for that matter. Sounds like quite the oversight, but it isn't really. Most of the food is supplied by a couple of (mainly Russian) caterers around town, while platters of salad, smoked fish, deli meats-anything that can be prepared from the fridge-are done up on the spot, while warm selections are reheated. Maybe that's not ideal, but solid Russian comfort food like dumplings, blini, and soup stands up well. And the formula keeps prices low. Very, very low.

A bit slow on this night. A cool yet friendly Russian dude watching Pet Shop Boys videos (which play nonstop all night, amazing!) is our waiter, bartender and chef for the next couple of hours. He brings some pretzels and a couple of Baltikas (pint-size bottles of refreshing Russian beer, only $4.50), and we order some warm pirozhok as a starter. We spread some Maille on the tasty yeast dough rolls, one filled with cabbage and the other with ground meat, and-yum-they're
gone.

A busy Canada Day left them with some items out of stock (savoury Uzbek pastries that I was hoping to try, and our "assorted" fish plate had only one type), but we make the best of it, ordering some delicious blini (like crêpes) and slathering them thickly with sour cream. I don't often get to drink vodka at the dinner table, but some mini flagons of Grey Goose and Moscowskaya in an ice bucket are lovely with our fish plate (good quality smoked salmon, salmon caviar, capers and lemon on a bed of lettuce served with buttered slices of rye) and our pickle platter (I'm a pickle fanatic and this plate doesn't disappoint: mounds of gherkins, sliced dills, eggplant, olives and pickled onions).

I was sort of kicking myself for not getting a salad (the winter salad of beet, potato, carrot, onion, pickle and cucumber in a homemade vinaigrette sounded particularly good), but we decide to eat no more apps and get some dessert instead. There are a tonne to choose from (although I'd rather see fewer options at optimal freshness than a lot of cakes from an icebox). My companion's mousse cake (from Swiss Pastries) is a creamy yet airy concoction of various layers of raspberry flavourings. My "Russian style" Napoleon square is gooey good, but the pastry isn't as flaky as I'd like.

My friend takes advantage of the Wednesday night special with a discounted "Molotov Cocktail." The window says they have the best espresso in town, so I go for it instead. Really great. And apparently they have to buy the beans in Montreal, so their claim may not be far off.

Bill paid and a poster bought, we said a warm goodbye to our new pal. We hope Ottawa's rearguard catches up soon.

AVANT-GARDE BAR AND GIFT SHOP

135 BESSERER STREET, 321-8908

HOT & COLD APPS, DESSERTS $2.45-$14.45

WWW.AVANTGARDEBAR.COM


 
 



Write your comment on this article!


Best service ever  
 
After our final RUS1902 Intro to Russian class, our group decided to celebrate at the Avant Garde. When we got there, however, it was closed! We were pretty bummed, and were about to go home when Alexei (the owner) came up and informed us that he was not open on Mondays. However, he opened up shop just for us to help us celebrate, despite our insisting that it was not necessary. It was impossibly sweet of him to do and he kept our glasses full and our spirits high all night! You can't ask for anything more than that!
However, just as a warning.... avoid the nachos. Chips with processed cheese and dill. It still unsettles me. If, however, you are feeling unadventurous and want to have something you are used to - I recommend the ice cream. Cheap and tasty.

Adriann Kennedy
{6 votes}
July 21st, 2005

One of the Best and only Russian Pub in Canada  
 
Its one amazing pub, got great food and drinks! Though could imprevise on food diversity then just serve blini, etc,... They could also serve some other Soviet dishes that are famous, Plove, mantii, etc,..

I give 4.5 of 5 for diverse food, cheap drinks, and great atmosphere where you have fun with friends!

Almaz Albanov

March 3rd, 2008

Avant-garde  
 
Great place. It's true that the espresso's there are really good, if you ever need a boost to go on with your day, an espresso from Avant-garde is what you need, it's quite unbeateable both for the energy and the taste!!

Roxane Gibault

October 9th, 2005

Cheers!  
 
Wow, Avant-Garde sounds great and such a change from the usual scene around
downtown Ottawa! I'm so tired of the thumping night clubs, fiddling irish pubs,
and protentious social bars. Its so refreshing to have a completely different
atmosphere to visit, with an inspiring menu and a poster art collection that
sounds intriguing. The food sounds terrific enough that I don't even mind that
the main preparation is done elsewhere. As long as the food is safe, delicious,
and presented well...who cares where it originated. It will be a stimulating
experience emersing ourselves into something completely original and yet
traditional in its Russian roots at the same time. Finally, something to go with
my Vodka!!

Sloan Long
{2 votes}
July 21st, 2005

A highly recommended combination: Grey Goose and caviar  
 
And smoked salmon among other highlights. Avant-Garde is a haunt worth returning to frequently.

Karen Mohindra
{3 votes}
July 20th, 2005

My favorite spot!  
 
Avant-Garde is my favorite bar, too bad I live in Montreal... The retro posters are terrific (and there are LOTS of them) and the staff is extremely friendly. I can't say much about the food, I only tried the blini with sour cream, and it was great, goes quite well with vodka. I recommand a shot of Stoli Vanil vodka, it's simply sublime...

Learry Gagné
{4 votes}
July 20th, 2005

I first noticed the decor  
 
At first I was quite impressed with the decor, which upon viewing is like getting a Russian art history lesson. Alexei always seems to be hospitable and makes sure pretzels are served with any drinks. The description of the menu is something I will explore more deeply another day. I have tried the beet soup borscht, it is exquisite and makes one feel well-nourished. There is quite an effort made to keep the atmosphere fresh and this family-run business delights with charming, intelligent and beautiful hostesses.

Skeleton James
{3 votes}
July 18th, 2005

Good food...great iced coffee  
 
I used to walk by the Avant-garde on my way in to work when it was being renovated back in the Fall of 2004. When it finally opened just before Christmas, I was pleasantly surprised by the fact that it seemed like nothing from around here - not trying to be another Irish pub, not serving the all of the same old beers, not serving the same wraps / burgers / pastas that you can get at any pub or café around town.
I'd agree that a full kitchen might serve them better, but I would like to stress that the food is truly delicious. Yes, prep time takes a bit longer than one might like (especially if they are busy), but I think that the attention to detail is worth the wait; the fact that sprigs of fresh dill are served with almost everything puts this place above most others in Ottawa.
As for the posters - well worth a gander. There are a few dozen of them in all, covering some forty years of - depending on your perspective - propaganda or public service announcements. What is most notable about the posters is the variety of the art styles and messages conveyed. I have also caught some live music at the Avant-Grade a couple of times - 'tis a pretty good space for some jazz. Keep your eyes open for listings.
Most notably for Ottawans in this heat wave, the Avant-garde serves the best iced coffee in Ottawa. I've only had one of the four on the menu - iced coffee with honey (with a touch of nutmeg) - and it was delicious. For those who have not had the pleasure of a real iced coffee - not one of those major-chain coffee-flavoured slushies - get yourself as quickly as you can on over to the Avant-garde.

Andrew Dzuba
{13 votes}
July 14th, 2005

A place to definitely check out  
 
Since I am back and forth between Ottawa I must try this place the next time I am in town. I need to stop in on a Wednesday night so I can get a Molotov cocktail. Sounds like a great place to unwind.

Selena Lobo
{3 votes}
July 21st, 2005

I need to check this place out...!  
 
I definitely like this sort of formula in a restaurant: keeping prices low and atmosphere lively. Even though, most of the food is apparently supplied by a couple of caterers around town, it doesn't mean that it is bad. It sounds like I'm going to have to check this place out...!
Actually, when I read about this place it sounds that is like going to be a familiar place where you meet a bunch of friends.

Valerie Augier

July 20th, 2005

Looks awesome, but.. vegan?  
 
Looks like it'd provide a very interesting atmosphere, and I'll deffinitly go there for drinks. But, the description and the photos of the menu look far less than vegan-friendly, unfortunately. Tragic.

Sarah Hunter
{3 votes}
July 18th, 2005

Sounds good  
 
Sounds like a tasty place to drink a vodka while eating russian food.
I guess we can use the term "When in Russia.." ..er, just doesn't sound the same.
Either way, I think I'm definately going to go try out this neat little bar, and give my palette a new taste experience.
Should be interesting to say the least.

Jeremy King
{2 votes}
July 15th, 2005


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