Le Coin du Chiche is little more than a hole in the wall-a bulletin board of clippings on healthy eating provides about the only decoration. But we don't go there for the scenery. We also don't go there after a night of iniquity on the Hull strip (if such a thing still exists) because the place is only open from lunch until 6 p.m. How, you ask me, are you going to get down there and try it out? You'll find a way.
They obviously cater to the government buildings close by, so if you go at lunch you'll probably stand in a longish line of well-heeled-and well-versed-civil servants. Watch them. The Madame who runs the place is insanely efficient and if you aren't paying attention and ready to answer her questions about what you want and how you'll have it, you will piss her off along with the entire lineup. So, short hours, a scary ordering procedure, and did I mention there isn't really anywhere to sit, other than a few stools by the window? Still worth it.
Don't be alarmed when you don't see greasy spitfuls of cooking chicken and beef. They roast their meat ahead of time and it tastes much better for it-healthy and delicious. I suggest you get acquainted with all their sandwiches (and the salads, and the daily cooked specials) at some point,
We escape with our food and lives intact (I almost blew everything when I asked for a receipt) to the scraggly park around the corner. A bite of the sandwich: The chicken is succulent, delicately flavoured and generously smeared with creamy garlic sauce. The pita it's swathed in is warm and slightly crunchy because it was placed in a sandwich press before tomatoes, onions, lettuce, and the best pickled cucumber you've ever tasted were added. With the earthy spiciness of the mohammara co-mingling with it all, what a heartbreaker.
I had to force myself to stop eating my friend's sandwich, offering him some of my cabbage rolls-today's special-in exchange. They are surprisingly light, the pale green leaves wound tightly round a mixture of mostly rice, flavoured with a bit of sweetly spiced ground beef and covered in a garlicky tomato broth glistening with olive oil. This is accompanied by a wonderfully acidic fattouch side salad, toasted pita chips, dark romaine and veggies in a lemony garlic vinaigrette speckled red with sumac for that extra bit of sourness. We polish everything off with some unctuous rice pudding, flavoured with rose water and topped with crushed pistachios.
There you have it. Lebanese food that is cheap, better tasting, and better for you than any I've found yet. Wasn't it worth the trouble?
Le Coin du Chiche 56 RUE EDDY, 770-6152 GATINEAU, QC $3-$7
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