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This week's column
 

March 17th, 2005
Scone Witch
Write a comment on this article !
Read members’ comments [11]

Sweet and savoury sorcery
Shawna Wagman
 


Centretown eatery takes scones to new heights
photo: Aaron McKenzie Fraser

Scone Witch has perfected a Victorian delicacy

As the story goes, Anna, the Duchess of Bedford complained of experiencing a "sinking feeling" every afternoon around four o'clock. Back in Queen Victoria's day, the upper crust ate a huge breakfast, a tiny lunch, and a very late dinner. One afternoon when Anna was struck with a royal case of the munchies, she instructed her servants to serve tea and little cakes in her boudoir. The delightful ritual of afternoon tea was born.

If you ask me, afternoon tea is all about the scones. Not as sweet as a doughnut, nor as rich as a pastry, something about those flakey little biscuits just hits the spot. That is not to say all scones are created equal. While every one begins as little more than a mixing bowl full of flour, sugar, cream and butter, it takes a talented baker to bring out the tasty potential in this understated snack.

As it happens, Ottawa is a splendid city for scone-lovers. Until recently, my favourites came from The Wild Oat, the home of organic, vegan and wheat-free eats in the Glebe. Suffice it to say, these are not your grandmother's scones. Made with spelt flour, these dense, hearty scones have the most amazing crunchy texture and nutty flavour. If my delighted taste buds serve me right, a drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of sea salt adorns the top. Superb. The fanciful flavour-of-the-day comes as a surprise-will it be ginger, lavender, chocolate and raspberry?

I recently discovered the city's most outstanding scones are being baked daily in the most unlikely of locations. Among
the parking lots and commercial buildings of Centretown's business district lies a little eatery called The Scone Witch. The name is in part a play on the word sandwich. Whether it's ham and cheese, a BLT, cucumber and cream cheese or poached salmon, every tasty, tower-like "sconewich" is served on your choice of a cheddar cheese or herb and onion scone.

For those seeking scones on the sweeter side, options include lemon-poppyseed, orange-cranberry, vanilla-cream and ginger-currant. With perfect crunchy exteriors and the most remarkably tender, flaky layers, these are the scones to which all others should be compared. Unlike other scones I have known, these can be eaten unadorned, however they do pair perfectly with the tea-time tradition of Devon cream and jam. I also recommend the homemade fruit compote-a sweet, sticky, melty mélange of oranges, lemons, figs, prunes and apricots.

Delighted by the "sconewich" concept and the obvious dedication to fresh, quality ingredients, there is just one thing about The Scone Witch that confounds me. For a bakery-café whose raison d'être is to celebrate the pleasures and possibilities of the humble scone, why are there none in sight? A very keen eye might spot the large oven trays at the back of the kitchen but I expected to be seduced by the wafting scent and appealing sight of golden-crusted scones from the moment I stepped through the door.

THE SCONE WITCH
388 ALBERT STREET
232-2173
SCONES: $1.50 EACH OR SIX FOR $8.50
 
 



Write your comment on this article!


Oooh... like krytonite to Superman  
 
I have sworn off cookies, muffins and donuts (including timbits) BUT I have yet to turn down a scone. I've tried the good (from Wild Oat as mentioned by the Reviewer, Bridgehead, Starbucks) and the bad (Tim Hurtons, grocery stores generics, etc.).
Having come across a review in the Ottawa Life magazine and Xpress, I HAD to make the pilgrimage to the Witch Scone (which happens to be a mere 2 blocks from where I work). I was like a giddy highschooler on prom night as I walked towards my mecca. I loved everything about the place: the friendly services, drifting aromas, crisp uniforms. I read over their short menu 3X before coming to a decision to try them all. Disappointedly, they ran out of the oatmeal and cheddar varieties but I recovered and ordered: 1 ginger currant, 2 vanilla, 2 cranberry orange and 1 lemon poppyseed. On the way back to the office, I dug around the warm scones and wolfed down the poppyseed. As promised, it pulled apart perfectly. Unlike a muffin where only the top is good eatin', the scone is fully faceted for enjoyment :-)
I think our palates naturally crave contractions (think poppycock). The deliciously warm scone was crisp to first bite followed by a soft, melt in your mouth middle. I swear I heard the angels sing as I savoured my first bite.
Having polished off a second scone (not at all bland vanilla) on the walk back, I quickly distributed the balance to my co-workers so I could enjoy them vicariously. They were no doubt gratebut but did think it odd that I wouldn't leave until I "watched" them finish eating :-)
I must go back for the sandwiches.... but god knows I'll never decide on one sandwich!

J S
{2 votes}
June 3rd, 2005

Scone Witch casts spells on me...  
 
One day, I was just in a mood for a scone. Saying that word makes me want to use the appropriate queen's english. That's right! Once I ate one of these, I wanted to speak British English. Anyway, I went by one day during my break. It's just a block down from me. I spoke to the chef, asking her for her recommendations, then telling her to choose any two for me. When you get them, they're are nice and warm and like an oreo you can grasp the top with one hand and the bottom with the other hand and with a gently tug, you split it in two. Then it's ripe for some butter or jam, but it's just perfect on it's own, warm, comforting and tasty. I ended up with a lemon-cranberry and a ginger. I went back the next day to get another one, to go with my morning coffee. I got the oatmeal. I don't know if it's healthier than a muffin. It hope is, but no matter what, I'll take a scone any day. I have no favourites yet. They are all damn good!!

E C
{1 vote}
April 21st, 2005

A reason to travel  
 
I have to admit that the Scone Witch has become the highlight of my travels to Ottawa. I stop in as often as twice a day (breakfast and lunch!), love the smiles I get from behind the counter...like we both know we are in on Ottawa's best kept secret..., the trusted recommendations of what to have with what, the gourmet presentation, the pleasing decor, and I always make sure to bring some scrumptious scones home for my husband (who pounces on them as soon as I get in the door)! Thank you for existing Scone Witch.

Helen Hiebert

December 3rd, 2005

Bewitching you with scones  
 
I have always been a lover of scones and this restaurant has come up with an ingenious way of placing sandwich fillings between a scone. It is just absolutely delicious.
You need to start off with a savoury scone and for dessert end with something sweet. The price of the scones are reasonable and the taste is out of this world.

Selena Lobo
{2 votes}
July 25th, 2005

Scone Witch is a treat  
 
I really enjoy the cucumber and cream cheese sconewich at lunchtime, but I always make sure I have some sort of back up at work when I return - I don't have a huge appetite, but I find that the sconewich and the salad, which are absolutely wonderful tasting, are just too small to fill me up. More a tea-break meal than a lunchtime energizer.
Perhaps next time I'll give the soup a go, that with a sconewhich just may fill me up.
Try it, it's something for everyone, and the people who work there are lovely.

Jennifer Carter

June 20th, 2005

Cranberry White Chocolate Almond is my favorite  
 
I walked by the Scone Witch the other day and was pleasantly surprised by the wonderful idea and the convenient location. I had my first scone experience in Calgary at a little cafe in Eau Claire Market called Good Earth: Cranberry White Chocolate Almond. It was love at first bite! I look forward to visit the Scone Witch and fall in love with new flavours.

Caroline Robitaille

May 13th, 2005

Time for a visit  
 
My reasons for a future visit to the Scone Witch are now three-fold:
1) I pass by it every single day on the bus, and it has been tempting me from afar;
2) A friend of ours did the interior design, and having heard great things about his handiwork, I would like to see it first-hand;
3) The wife loves her scones. 'Nuf said.
Looking forward to a visit.

Karlis Bouse
{4 votes}
April 4th, 2005

Tempting price  
 
Wow the price is amazing you can just drop in and get six for 8.50? Granted scones aren't very filling however you can't beat that price. It's great that it is located in a business area but I am sure it will be packed so I gotta go now!

P. Eric Poirier
{17 votes}
March 22nd, 2005

Tea and treats and all you can eat!  
 
Sounds like a great place to rest your weary feet and satisfy your grumbling tummy after a shopping spree. I would love to go with my friends here and enjoy the treats. I like the idea that there is a flavour of the day so that way you can taste the variety of scones they have to offer. Even better is the fact that they have sconewitches with more substance like meats and cheeses because well.........my husband doesn't eat dainty food.
Tea anyone?

Renessa Cabrera
{15 votes}
March 21st, 2005

A morning indulgence!  
 
This is a small cute little place great for breakfast, especially if you happen to work downtown Ottawa. The scone witch score 10 with me, for a creative lunchtime made of scones. A friendly, relaxed lady is right behind the counter taking your orders for the scones, and another smiling lady is right behind another counter taking your orders for coffee or tea. And let's face it, scones are too much trouble to make them from scratch at home, therefore this quaint little restaurant is the right place to eat one of those rich and tasty scones!

Valerie Augier
{21 votes}
March 17th, 2005

Lovely  
 
Wow the article makes me wanna go and try those delicious sounding scones. The small history of scones is nice to hear too. The prices are very reasonable too. This sounds like a great place to try out with a couple of friends.

Ayse Sahin
{5 votes}
March 27th, 2005


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