Scottish cooking must be based on a series of dares, said Mike Myers in So I Married An Axe Murderer. There's no other possible explanation for such masochistic cuisine. It must have been some bored shepherds overlooking the hills one night, blotto on peaty single-malt, who conjured up such dishes.
"Angus, ya see that sheep o'er there?"
"Ya, I se'er, Alistair. What for?"
"I'll bet ya won't fill 'er stomach with the liver, heart, lungs, onions and oatmeal, then boil it and eat it!"
"Oh ya! For the remainder o' that flagon o' Islay, I sher will!
And so it began, a gastronomy notorious the world over for its quease-inducing properties. This is also probably why Scotland produces undoubtedly some of the finest whisky and ales: they need liquid courage to stomach the food.
Jest and conjecture aside, one gander at the menu at The Glen Scottish Restaurant and my normal iron constitution was unsettled. Take the Scotch Egg-a hard-boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat, coated with breadcrumbs and fried. Yikes! Is that supposed to be mouth-watering?
But as they say, don't knock it until you've tried it. So I asked our server what she thought of the infamous haggis. "Do you mean if I have tried it? God no," she
So with a hardly ringing endorsement for a dish nevertheless considered palatable by the dining clientele, I ordered haggis. And it was pretty tasty. Not out-of-this-world good, but savoury enough to recommend. With a slightly mealy, chopped liver texture, the mixture was livened and balanced by a generous seasoning of herbs.
While haggis is Scotland's most celebrated meal, The Glen Scottish Restaurant's claim to fame is its fish and chips. Made from haddock imported from Scotland, your order can be prepared three ways: dipped in The Glen's special batter, poached in lemon juice, or battered and breaded. As we were indecisive, we were happy to order the McConville Special that offers one battered and one breaded. And it was good: the breading and battering of the two significant portions had a light and crispy exterior with moist, flaky and flavourful fish inside. It is easy to see why people keep coming back for more-this is a must-try! The chips were solidly prepared, everyday-style French fries.
The bridie, a traditional dish of ground beef and onions in a pastry shell, was equally pleasing with a flaky crust and pleasantly seasoned filling. This was covered in a light and flavourful brown sauce, and accompanied by steamed peas and carrot cubes, but sadly no neeps (turnips in Scotland).
Overall, Scottish cuisine may have a reputation for requiring the bravery of William Wallace to consume, but it's filling and comforting fare. Such is the case at The Glen Scottish Restaurant, a bonny spot indeed to take your clan.
THE GLEN SCOTTISH RESTAURANT
462 HAZELDEAN ROAD, KANATA
836-5622
ENTRÉES: $7.95-$12.95
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