A toast
Maeve Haldane
|
photo: L'Orpailleur's Mathilde Morel: Glee of the grape
|
To the burgeoning successes of Quebec wine
I attended a wedding in a vineyard recently. The stunning bride wore a vintage-style gold dress with a fur stole. The groom wore a big grin, the luckiest guy around. They stood in front of rows and rows of grapevines to exchange vows; a flock of birds swooped in the background, their dark silhouettes flecking the sky. This was a setting you'd expect in the south of France. But we were at the vineyard of L'Orpailleur, south of highway 10, nestled in that microclimate region in the Eastern Townships where they get 145 frost-free days a year and the soil is rocky. In other words: Quebec's own wine region.
After the ceremony young women offered us scant glasses of bourru, that year's young wine, sharp and green with a hint of effervescence - perfect for toasting a new union.
Established in the early '80s, award-winning L'Orpailleur has the grace (and business acumen) to try to root itself into as much of Quebecers' lives as possible, offering tastings, tours, a store, a restaurant and party services.
They have an Economuseum (part of a network of museums on artisanal production) where curious bacchants can learn about the history of wine in Quebec and admire educational displays. A wall exhibits the range of champagne bottle sizes, from the old-lady tipplers' quarter bottle to a Grand Prix - a Nebuchadnezzar in excess of 15 litres.
We Quebecers do love the grape, but not as much as back in the heady days of New France. In 1739, there was an import of 775,166 bottles of wine for 24,260
adults (which doesn't count the wine that the Jesuits had been making from wild grapes for decades). At a per capita consumption of 32 litres, that's pretty much double what we quaff today. In the early 1800s Canadians tried to cultivate vines, starting in the Niagara region. It wasn't an easy go, but by the mid-century viticulture was blooming in Quebec, particularly among those crafty monks, the Oka Trappists. (Paradoxically, at the same time a hardy temperance movement was taking hold in this province's homes, and by the end of the 19th century a black cross - the symbol of abstinence - hung in many living rooms.)
It's taken a fair bit of earth under the nails to find varietals that can withstand the environment's rigours. They're mostly hybrids, not the Vitis vinifera Old World fruit that produce the more renowned European booze.
L'Orpailleur vintner and native Frenchwoman Mathilde Morel says she's learned a lot over the past three years about how to work with these hybrids. Previously, she purpled her fingers in China and Australia with Vitis vinifera. Seyval is L'Orpailleur's main grape, and the 22-year-old vines are hitting their stride, she says. Vines age prematurely here, and give up the ghostly grape at about 25, half the life of those across the pond.
oooBack in Montreal at wine bar BU, sommelier Patrick St-Vincent has a couple of Quebec wines on the menu. He says that L'Orpailleur is an important vineyard because "they put a lot of effort in promotion, and get people interested in what Quebec is capable of making."
It's hardscrabble work to make wine in La Belle Province. "You need to want it and be willing to suffer. But every now and then there's a good vintage and you can be proud," he says. The year 2003 "was a great year, [L'Orpailleur was] finally able to get ripened grapes to get a good wine."
St-Vincent doesn't offer local wine just to have it on the list, but he will support a producer even in non-stellar years, as long as "the terroir has something to say."
He admires Michael Marler of Les Pervenches, the other Quebec name hipsters will find at BU. "He's a young vintner, he works hard," says St-Vincent. Marler's thorough fermentation technique leads to a "more creamy texture in the wine," he adds.
The wine future here is ever tenuous. St-Vincent laments last year's death of wine pioneer Dietrich Joos, the Alsatian who introduced Riesling grapes to Quebec. His daughter sold that land and it now reaps prosaic corn.
The one silver lining to the global warming cloud is that wine here may improve. As well, Morel mentioned that Ontario's recent warm winter means its ice wine didn't get optimal conditions and Quebec's own ice wine could take its stead.
Plunging into Quebec's wine biz takes verve, faith and dedication to a partnership between artisan and terroir through fair weather and foul. I gladly lift a glass of bourru to all who try.
BU wine bar
5245 St-Laurent; 276-0249
To buy Quebec wine, check the SAQs and browse Jean-Talon Market's
Marché des Saveurs, 280 Place du marché du nord; 271-3811
For info: www.economusees.com
www.orpailleur.ca
www.lespervenches.com
www.bu-mtl.com
I knew that there were vineyards in the Niagara region and that Quebec produced cider and ice wine, but for some reason it never crossed my mind that la Belle Province could also make wine of the 'warm' variety, so this article has really opened my eyes!
When I was younger I hated red wine and prefered to quaff white, my penchant then changed through hues to rosé and now red is my favourite tipple, and I actually prefer New World wines to the European 'classics', I'm especially into Australian wines at the moment, they seem so flavourful and brimming with sunshine!
Little did I know that so close to Montreal could be a micro-climate allowing for the cultivation of wine...and warming our bones: maybe it's time for me to move? :) I love to support local producers, combined with my interest and increasing love of wine it seems that a trip down to L'Orpailleur is on the cards!
Another interesting fact that this article conveyed is that there is a wine bar on St. Laurent - I can't believe I hadn't heard of it before (or been there) but that is going to be a definite must for a 5@7 or long autumn evening sometime soon. I have never seen wine from Quebec sold at the SAQ but will certainly take Haldane's advice to browse through the markets and check out the websites.
|
|
Ellen Reid
|
{30 votes}
|
|
|
| Montreal Matters spotlight on wine |
|
It's bloody weird reading an article on wine in Quebec and try to write a comment about it without thinking back a little to this whole SAQ mess that we seem to be in.
I'm not a big drinker, just to start off with, and when I do drink it's the good stuff, not wine, not coolers or even beer. No, when I drink I drink the hard stuff. Whiskey. Brandy. Vodka. Give me a mix and I'm in heaven.
Wine? Not so much.
Some of it is good but given a choice I will always gravitate towards the whites. I find than not many makers make a red that I can stomach. Quebec wine stopped impressing me years ago, I think around the time that the microbrewers started to hit their stride. Now there's something I'd be fascinated to read more about.
Good article just not my cup of tea, if you know what I mean.
|
|
Pedro Eggers
|
{1 vote}
|
|
|
| More than L'Orpailleur in the Eastern Townships |
|
As for every article I see on the wine industry in the Eastern Townships, the focus is always L'Orpailleur. Of course they are (one of) the original mass planter of vines in the region but they should now be know as one within several quality producers. For instance, Domaine de l'Ardenais on Ridge Road is another example of more than a wine bottling business. They offer wine tasting, seminars, wine tours and in the summer of 2004, a wedding was also held at their site. To compliment their products offered, Domaine de l'Ardenais also produces many liquers and a port style wine.
And here's a secret...Domaine de l'ardenais sells grapes to L'Orpailleur so they can make the production level necessary for their customer base including the SAQ.
Now that's teamwork...
|
|
Brian Kilpatrick
|
|
|
|
Ouf! Talk about an article for wine snobs!
I have to agree, though, with Maeve Haldane, when she say that the wine business is not for any dilettante; it better to come in with a passion for good wine and a true desire to produce something of our own who would be special. I saw a report on Télé-Québec about vineyards and the problems of having one in Quebec, and, let me tell, those folks don't start something like that because they want to make a quick buck.
Fact is, a lot of wines coming from this province are quite tasting - I remember, not long ago, at a reception, being totally flabergasted by a white wine that had the most fruity taste. The waiter assure that it was produce right here, somewhere out north (couldn't tell you where, exactly; totally forgot it. I actually manage to also forget the name of the wine, and if be looking for it ever since at the SAQ, with no success...)
When it comes to alcoholic beverages, it seems, we Quebeccers are quite good - got to be because of our winter and our ever-continuing need to hide from the cold with our boozes. Eh, at long as it produce good drinks, who cares about the reasons?
|
|
Joseph Belizaire
|
{19 votes}
|
|
|
| Red Red Wine.Stay Close to me. |
|
Taken from the classic UB40 song "Red Red Wine", wine is the best liquor drink and I never met one person who did not have a passion for wine that was Italian. This month is the time where everybody makes their own wine and the province of Quebec is the province where they love to make and taste wine. Quebec has many vineyards but the vineyards are located in Napa Valley, California because I have been there and they got the best wine. I have tried wine made in Quebec and it is good. I want to wish all the people in Quebec luck this season of winemaking.
|
|
Carmela Sicurella
|
{25 votes}
|
|
|
| Wine the water of life in color. |
|
This was a very interesting article for me. I love a nice wine from time to time and I like to taste different ones. I have not come across a favorite one yet although I do know what I like. I lived in the Townships for years but the only wine I saw up there was honey wine, which was very nice but not to go with a meal. I am very interested in trying this Quebec wine and I would very much like to visit where it is made. I found the article seemed a little less interested in giving that information and was more into selling the product.In any case I will seek this wine and try its effects.
|
|
Maria Cecillia Silva
|
{16 votes}
|
|
|
Excellent article......wine in Quebec....a hard task and ever so endured into a profit. The wine business has to be a difficult one in the region as the seasons pass with untimely dedications. The right atmosphere, temperature, the grinding, gruelling efforts put forth by the owners. Then the satisfaction, adoration and love for the wine comes together with praise of the consumer. The services offered by L'Orpailleur..the store, tours, tastings, restaurant and party services are all excellent ways of making money and making the business established and profitable. Wine will forever be a hot commodity....
When thinking about the wine industry of the 1800's has to make a laugh a bit....thinking of the monks...decked out in their immaculate attire...making wine or rather tasting wine....get the picture! Thanks be to them for having a handle on the situation.....lol
Applause to BU for the uplifting and pat on the back recommendation for L'Orpailleur.
|
|
Jennifer Berardini
|
{26 votes}
|
|
|
I had no idea that we had vineyards so close to Montreal. They should set up some sort of bus tour leaving from here to take all the city slickers out there for a day of walking and sipping the samples, and purchasing of course! I love my wine just as much as the next person and if I find a great Quebec wine, well of course, I will support it. As for the wine bar, I've been wanting to go to one since I saw the movie, Shirley Valentine. I will have to make an effort to drag my wine loving girlfriend out for a Friday night drink.
|
|
Joyce Stemkowsky
|
{11 votes}
|
|
|
I Can't believe I never thought of looking for a vineyard! thank you for your idea.:)) It's a great little trip to do with friends , couple or to get married !
|
|
Nathalie Verbruggen
|
{3 votes}
|
|
|
