The ownership changed just under a year ago and with it the name of the restaurant, although you wouldn't know it by the sign that still proclaims "African Palace." The new owners also forgot to apply for a new liquor licence, but their carefree attitude ends there. The interior is decorated with animal skins, Ethiopian musical instruments and African works of art. Waterfalls on the rear wall shimmer as water glides down two mirrors flanked by large plants. Two large grass-hut roofs hang from the light fixtures adding intimacy to the high ceilings.
Menu items can be ordered individually or combined with others for two dollars more. As is typical of Ethiopian cuisine, most foods are types of spicy stews served on and eaten with injera, a flat spongy bread fermented to give it a sourdough-like taste. Once you get beyond the sticky fingers, there is something satisfyingly tactile about eating with your hands.
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Rounding out this platter was a stew of cabbage, carrots and potato that solidified the extremely tasty meal. I didn't find fault with a single component of the dishes; even the injera (at times to be too sour for my tastes) had just a hint of sourness as a counterpoint to the spices, balancing out the hotter sauces.
Granted there was a total of only six patrons on this night, but the lone server was doing double duty on both sides of the swinging doors and didn't miss a beat when it came to refilling water, serving and clearing plates or answering questions about the menu.
With food this fine I would have been prepared to plunk down my credit card and the cost be damned, but the bill was as pleasing the cooking: Dinner for two with mango juice came just under $25, proving that you can fatten up with no harm to the wallet.
EAST AFRICAN RESTAURANT376 RIDEAU STREET789-7397ENTREE: $7.50-$12.50
*Note: Cheapeats Ottawa is a new book published by Plethora Press for the frugal feaster in Ottawa-Gatineau. It lists 225 establishments for the budget-minded diner. To buy a copy ($11.95) go to www.cheapeatsottawa.com for bookstore locations.
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