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This week's column
 

August 26th, 2004
East African Restaurant
Write a comment on this article !
Read members’ comments [8]

Cuisine unjustly ignored
Aaron Shaw
 
East African Restaurant an outstanding Success

It's eureka when you discover a hidden culinary gem. Sometimes its off-the-beaten-path location keeps it incognito, but even one in plain view can fail to draw the crowds. The East African Restaurant is in the latter category, midway along busy Rideau Street but far too ignored. So it was on a summery night that I was walking by and on a whim decided to try it. Though another Ethiopian eatery is only a few steps away and drawing a large share of the dining populace, it is proffering simply good food, while the edibles at East African Restaurant are outstanding.

The ownership changed just under a year ago and with it the name of the restaurant, although you wouldn't know it by the sign that still proclaims "African Palace." The new owners also forgot to apply for a new liquor licence, but their carefree attitude ends there. The interior is decorated with animal skins, Ethiopian musical instruments and African works of art. Waterfalls on the rear wall shimmer as water glides down two mirrors flanked by large plants. Two large grass-hut roofs hang from the light fixtures adding intimacy to the high ceilings.

Menu items can be ordered individually or combined with others for two dollars more. As is typical of Ethiopian cuisine, most foods are types of spicy stews served on and eaten with injera, a flat spongy bread fermented to give it a sourdough-like taste. Once you get beyond the sticky fingers, there is something satisfyingly tactile about eating with your hands.

The yebeg key we't (yebeg
meaning lamb, and the key we't referring to a berbere sauce made from red peppers, ginger, garlic, cardamom and other spices ranging from mild to very hot and peppery) was delicious with tender morsels of meat and the slightly fiery sauce lingering on the tongue. The doro we't (doro meaning chicken) was also simmered to perfection with the chicken just barely hanging on to the bone. This was served with a hard-boiled egg and smothered in a similar berbere sauce. From the vegetarian combination, the lentils cooked in mild and hot sauces were superb in their exotically seasoned sauce. Even the hotter sauce was prepared so as not to overwhelm the mouth, but to tantalize it with a warming myriad of flavours. The yellow split peas had a slightly firm texture and a creamy, spicy sauce.

Rounding out this platter was a stew of cabbage, carrots and potato that solidified the extremely tasty meal. I didn't find fault with a single component of the dishes; even the injera (at times to be too sour for my tastes) had just a hint of sourness as a counterpoint to the spices, balancing out the hotter sauces.

Granted there was a total of only six patrons on this night, but the lone server was doing double duty on both sides of the swinging doors and didn't miss a beat when it came to refilling water, serving and clearing plates or answering questions about the menu.

With food this fine I would have been prepared to plunk down my credit card and the cost be damned, but the bill was as pleasing the cooking: Dinner for two with mango juice came just under $25, proving that you can fatten up with no harm to the wallet.

EAST AFRICAN RESTAURANT
376 RIDEAU STREET
789-7397
ENTREE: $7.50-$12.50

*Note: Cheapeats Ottawa is a new book published by Plethora Press for the frugal feaster in Ottawa-Gatineau. It lists 225 establishments for the budget-minded diner. To buy a copy ($11.95) go to www.cheapeatsottawa.com for bookstore locations.


 
 



Write your comment on this article!


Nice place!  
 
A bit more pricey than Horn of Africa, just a few metres away, but you can really notice the attention to detail in the decor. If that's what you prefer then this is a good place to go for sure.
The vegetarian dish (on the restaurant's sign, it's actually misspelled as "vegartian" - hehe) is quite similar to Horn of Africa's but again the presentation is a bit better.
I personally enjoy the actual food at Horn of Africa more than here.

Paul G
{1 vote}
March 18th, 2005

Special Dinner for Sure  
 
Last weekend when my son Steven suggested I try your restaurant, I did not have any knowledge on the type of food I would be served. Truly a great delight. Enjoy the veg plate along with the meat. The three of us enjoyed ourselves! I thought I was a lover of Indian food - well I will head to your restaurant next time I visit Ottawa and I have already recommended the African Horn to all my friends in London, Ontario. thanks very much for a great dining experience.


Heather Meece

July 11th, 2007

Great Place for Ethiopian Food in Ottawa  
 
East African Restaurant is by far the best Ethiopian restaurant in Ottawa. After being deployed in Ottawa for two months from Vancouver, I was wondering how life in this gorgeous city was going to be since am not that adventurous when it come to different types of foods. But as soon as I came across the list of African Restaurant, I randomly decided to check out this restaurant. The services were great, the food is awesome, the prices id affordable and to top it off, I had a chance of tasting the African beer TUSKER after many years of craving it! Of course I had a chance of introducing it to my co-workers that had never tasted anything African and they loved it and went back so many times....... I'd recommend this restaurant to any person that's ready to adventure some really tasty African food. WAY TO GO EAST AFRICAN RESTAURANT STAFF! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.

Justo Mir

July 2nd, 2007

A Possibility  
 
My only experience with Ethiopian food wasn't very pleasant (although the restaurant closed soon after my visit, suggesting that I hadn't tried the best Ethiopian food), but this review makes me want to give it a second chance. I have made an African-inspired stew recipe that I like quite a bit with chick peas, and I think I would like to give the spongy bread another try. I am particularly intrigued with the vegetarian option, since usually one of my first questions when reading a restaurant review is whether there is one. While the lack of a liquour license doesn't phase me too much, it would be nice if Ottawa would get Bring Your Own Wine soon like Montreal (I know it is in the works). I really miss going to B.Y.O.W. restaurants.

I'm also very interested in taking a look at the book, Cheapeats Ottawa. I know this type of book has been very successful in Montreal, although I have only browsed the Montreal version at Chapters for restaurant ideas rather than actually buying it. Since I am new to Ottawa, and I don't know where all of the good Cheap Eats are already, I might actually consider buying this one.

Heather Jackson
{14 votes}
August 28th, 2004

Good food  
 
A friend introduced me to african food and since then I've been addicted to it. It is so good, so tasty.....thanks to the amazing spices they use to give flavor to their dishes, I didn't try 'East African Restaurant' yet, but next time I will go and take a look at that enchanting restaurant, that seems to be as much a treat for the tastebuds as one for the eyes....

Lise Auger

April 1st, 2005

Slobber Slobber....  
 
Drool ... I am licking spit off my chin just thinking about this mmhhmmm ... it just sounds so good I could print this off and eat the paper ... yebeg key we't, creamy spicy sauce and peas, doro we't mmm ... I can't stand it no more ... oops, heh heh, my keyboard is wet, gotta go ... mmmm injera ... slobber ... Easssst African Ressstaurant here I come ....????!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Robert Bichage

January 27th, 2005

Cuisine unjustly ignored  
 
I am not a connoisseur of African food. What I have tried has been delightful (la Mer Rouge in Montreal). I will definitely consider this East African Restaurant as a future destination. Especially since it is reasonably priced...

Skeleton James
{3 votes}
August 31st, 2004

Go African  
 
Sounds enchanting....the decor alone is inviting. The African Palace has a nice ring to it. After reading the article made me think twice about African eateries. The tantalizing sizzles on the tongue are enough to make you park your car. The portions and pricing are all up to par....meaning it is in the definite ball park of most peoples budgets. I applause the soul waiter for his calm and excellent working habits. Sounds like a very relaxing place and a carefree attitude. Once the liquor licence kicks in I am sure more than 6 patrons will be sitting around the tables. Congrats on the new place in the downtown core.

Jennifer Berardini
{8 votes}
August 28th, 2004


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