Chez Eric: Heirloom Tomato Salad, Seafood Fondue, and Eric The Goldfish the Fifth photo: Ben Welland

Alas, Chez Eric is the dream fully realized. Still, anytime I want to live vicariously, this charming bistro is just a half-hour's drive into the Gatineau Hills. Like I said, it's all tucked into a rambling house: cash counter with cooler displaying in-house and locally made desserts; a tiny open kitchen; a bar that houses Boréale beer taps, international wines, and Eric the goldfish; and a dining room that seats about 20 (an upstairs dining area might hold another 20). It sounds tight on paper, but comes off cozy in practice.

Owner and chef Che Chartrand's set dinner menu is filled with can't-fail favourites - steak, roasted halibut, gnocchi, even a burger - but he's instilled his distinctive touch in each. The lunch menu is simpler, with soups and sandwiches, omelets and quiches. In fine laid-back style, the place even features all-you-can-eat bacon during weekend brunches. And everything sounds so good on the specials board, you may just end up tossing the menu aside.

On our visit for lunch, we ordered specials exclusively, starting with a simple root vegetable soup, a touch sweet from parsnips and spicy from curry. Next, KCDC's BLT was perfection: multi-grain bread toasted just so, Boston lettuce, ripe tomatoes, crisp-tender bacon, a bit of mayo. What really got me was the smear of sage pesto, a counterpoint that made the sandwich new again.

Garnished with colourful (and edible) flowers, my cassoulet was a lumberjack's serving of navy beans, brunoised carrots, sliced sausage and bacon, the sauce enriched with heavy cream and a drizzle of thick balsamic. I could have taken the beans a bit tenderer, but the flavour was unbelievable. Thoroughly sold, KCDC and I even ordered up an elk and rabbit terrine to go (!), served with crostini and a side salad, and as good as the rest.

In short, Chez Eric is the embodiment of the relaxed, rural restaurant I wish I had. Kudos to them for being so much better than a dream.

Chez Eric Café and Bistro
28 Valley Dr.
Wakefield, QC
(819) 459-3747
Entrées: $15-$25
 
 

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