Tuna with a crab-apple puree, frozen in -200 degree Celcius liquid nitrogen, with bison steak and blue potato photo: Ben Welland

You wouldn't know it by looks. Inside and out, the building is a study in cool minimalism, a brick cube with iron grates for curtains located at the dark end of Rochester Street. There is no sign, as one diner griped at length (the building number is obvious, people), and just 22 seats, comfortable armchairs arranged in twos and fours around sparsely set tables. The kitchen, which all are invited to visit after their meal, houses next-to-no equipment - some hot plates, a water bath for sous-vide cooking, a liquid nitrogen freezer plate. And seeing it after your meal adds major shock value.

Here's the thing: The "meal" at Atelier, night after night, is an ever-changing, prix fixe 12-course tasting menu. For $75, you're off on an adventure in eating that will probably last two-and-a-half hours; another $55 will get you wine pairings for the evening. Almost as soon as you're seated, well-trained servers begin bringing out dishes at a comfortable pace, describing as they arrive how each of these intricate and colourful miniatures was created. Although Chef Lepine shies away from the term "molecular gastronomy," you quickly get the sense that he'll employ any tactic, any technique - even custom-designed utensils - to heighten the experience. How he and his staff seemingly manage to tweak the food's very DNA in that skeleton kitchen is beyond me.

Atelier is all about the surprise factor - in fact, they're happier if you have no idea what you're about to eat. (The menu is posted at www.atelierrestaurant.ca. Check out the Atelier blog - it's a fascinating read.) So I'd hate to kill the mystique by talking about the food too much! I will say that our meal featured flavour combinations and preparations I had never conceived of; creative, inspired presentations; one of the best steaks I've ever tasted (bison, even!); and a crescendo of four dessert plates in a row. Not everything soared, yet any missteps were quickly forgotten along this intense, ambitious and seriously fun ride. Best not to say too much more, except: splurge on Atelier. So worth it...

Atelier
(540 Rochester St.)
(613) 321-3537
Entrées: $75
 
 

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Chef Marc Lepine Artist Creator at Work     Atelier restaurant where you can find Chef Marc Lepine at work transforming an outstanding chef d'oeuvre of intricate dishes that one could find displayed at a Fine Art Gallery. The infusion of colors, the blend of vegetables married together makes an explosion of flavors that are outstanding and unforgettable. With his experience in traveling to different countries his dishes reveal the influence of Asian and European mix that takes your breath away. From his cutlery to his presentation of dishes Chef Lepine makes the food the centerpointe of attention. In his small quarters, it is quite interesting how he transforms his 12 course meal into a fixed price. He goes far beyond expectations to achieve a different technique level of cuisine. He certainly has avant garde methods as to tweaking his food in manners that no one has dealt before. He has culinary expertise that one could find in only in certain european restaurants, that we have the fortunate pleasure to have Chef Marc Lepine works his wonders here in this beautiful Capital of Canada, Ottawa. Atelier is sure to become one of the outmost sought after restaurant in years. Congratulations to the new face in town, much success and prosperity. Cheers!
Marianne Guint		March 9th, 2009
Incredible experience     My partner and I decided to try Atelier on a whim last night. Wow. It was dinner and a show. Such a small place with such incredible flavours. The wine pairings were unlike anything I had ever seen. It was almost a training camp for sommeliers. Coupled with the fact that chef Lepine seems to cater to all dietary restrictions (a neighbouring table had a vegan diner) without hesitation - despite the blind menu - is a testament to the brilliance of this restaurant. While pricey, it is absolutely worth the splurge! Atelier truly is a 'workshop' - and it's final product is an experience you won't soon forget.
Eric Hebert		October 30th, 2009

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