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This week's column
 

March 27th, 2008
Jak's Kitchen
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Read members’ comments [1]

Jakpot!
Colleen Johnson
 



photo: Ben Welland

Bronson bistro satisfies cravings for fresh flavours

Jak's Kitchen opened up last year in place of Stoneface Dolly's first location and, since the previous restaurant had built up a reputation for doing a nice weekend brunch, it seemed only natural that Jak's should follow in their footsteps. My date and I decided to give Jak's a try on a lazy Sunday morning - an ideal time to eat a breakfast so indulgent that it's served well into the afternoon.

The place has certainly undergone a substantial facelift since its Stoneface Dolly's days. A palette of buttery limes, steely greys and watery turquoise accents liven up the contemporary décor at Jak's Kitchen. After sipping on some fresh squeezed grapefruit juice, we made our selections from the varied and appealing choices to be had on the brunch menu. The Johnny Cash tunes that the chef had brought in that day made the brief wait for our food all the more pleasurable. As one of my all-time-favourite tracks, called One Piece at Time, played over the sound system, I wondered why I hadn't made the short trek to this bistro earlier.

We were presented with plates that exceeded our expectations and were offered a sprinkling of fresh ground pepper from what is quite possibly the largest pepper grinder on the planet. The home fries, made up of a medley of diced new potatoes and fingerlings, were beautifully roasted and liberally seasoned with fresh chopped parsley. The pear, walnut, caramelized onion and Cambozola omelette I'd ordered was a flavour-packed treasure. Each bite oozed with gooey Cambozola,
a delicately flavoured cheese with all the creamy richness of a Camembert and just a touch of the kick of a Gorgonzola blue. The buttermilk biscuit served on the side was tender, flaky and paired well with the raspberry jam left at the table.

The menu offered up an interesting selection of variations on the traditional eggs Benedict. My date settled on the Pop Eye, which included two poached eggs on a halved buttermilk biscuit with roasted red peppers, baby spinach and Diablo sauce. The dish smacked of freshness brought out by a subtle hit of lemon. It came with a side of baby field greens, lightly dressed with balsamic vinaigrette, and more of those wonderful roasted potatoes. It was certainly the best eggs Benedict I've had in a good long time.

The waitress was not one to skimp on the coffee refills. At no time during my entire leisurely meal did I even see the bottom of my mug. No sooner did I wonder about the dinner fare than our server thoughtfully offered us a menu to peruse. I'm happy to report that all of the tasty-sounding mains on the dinner menu give you the option of enjoying them as part of a table d'hôte, and all for about $30.

Save for its traffic-laden Bronson location, this restaurant has got everything going for it - great service, modern décor, flavourful dishes and reasonable prices. What more could a foodie ask for?

Jak's Kitchen
479 Bronson Ave.
(613) 230-2088
Brunch: $6-$10
Lunch: $6-$10
 
 



Write your comment on this article!


i <3 jak  
 
I second that my friend! what more could a foodie ask for!
This is by far the best brunch/breakfast place i've come across here in ottawa. so far i haven't found anything comparable... even sunday brunchs with the parents at the fairmont is not comparable ( porbably the routine of having to go there each week though.... eeeeek! :-O )... ahhh i'm really feelin kind of selfish and don't want ppl to find out about it! (though they should! if they're at all foodies!)

dora bri

July 12th, 2008


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