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This week's column
 

April 19th, 2007
Phnom Penh Noodle House
Write a comment on this article !
Read members’ comments [7]

Seeing stars
Simon Osborne
 


Phnom Penh's hypnotically delicious barbecue salad
photo: Ben Welland

Cambodian noodle house Phnom Penh gets my vote

For me, there's no better way to spend a night out, to make a date all the more romantic, to enjoy the company of friends, than whiling away the hours at a great restaurant. The formula's so basic - food and drink, hospitality, atmosphere - how is it so all-powerful? My love for restaurants can make this job difficult: I can be critical, but it's just because so often I see potential.

Which makes discovering places like Phnom Penh Noodle House - potential fully realized - all the better. KCDC and I stopped in one night to see how Phnom Penh earned a multi-star ranking among Ottawa's best.

First off, I have never had more thoughtful, genial service. Our waitress made recommendations from the extensive, well-planned (and very affordable) menu, warned us about spice levels, and enthused about the Cambodian beer she'd just brought in, called Angkor (not bad, but a tad watery).

First came cold spring rolls with shrimp - always a perfect start to a Southeast Asian meal, tickling the taste buds without spoiling the appetite. Phnom Penh's were amazing - vibrantly fresh and overloaded with shrimp and herbs. I have a bad habit of blindly using whatever condiment is put in front of me, but these were so flavourful I resisted the excellent homemade chili sauce until my last bite.

Next was a hypnotically delicious barbecue salad: two skewers of lemongrass-infused barbecue beef coupled with a cold salad of shredded carrot, cucumber, lettuce and sprouts, in a tangy lime dressing spiked with slivers
of chili. The salad's cool crispness harmonized with the perfectly charred meat that was so tender we pulled it apart with chopsticks.

We ordered mi ga la, the only explicitly Cambodian dish we found. It was a cold noodle dish in a fish sauce-based dressing, topped with sliced fish cake, hard-boiled egg, tomatoes and cucumber, and sprinkled with dried shrimp. Mi ga la would work best as a shared starter - enjoyable, but it's a lot of fish cake, and even with so many ingredients, the flavour palled over time.

We saved the best for last: The red curry was dynamite, every element cooked just so, setting off the rest. The eggplant melted on contact, while the onion retained a bit of bite. The chicken was sliced elegantly thin, and the sweet potato was a welcome surprise. We killed it quick, then sat scooping steamed rice soaked with the coconut milk and lemongrass-laden sauce.

As we waited for the bill, we surveyed the warm-hued room. Family tables shared hearty laughs; daters drew in closer to each other. The contentment in the room was contagious. And that, my friends, is a great restaurant.

Phnom Penh Noodle House
1100 Wellington Street West
Tel: (613) 722-8588
Entrees: $6.95-$10.50


 
 



Write your comment on this article!


Picky People Pick Particular Pog Per Pallitable Prognosis!  
 
My friend Pog is originally from Cambodia and he says this place on Wellington serves best of its type in Ottawa. Even, probably better than most in Cambodia or Vietnam. He says it's a very mellow atmosphere ,as long as you don't pay attention to the "street people" on the other side of the glass. Impeccable service with always a smile. (says the waitress probably smiles in her sleep),and believe me Pog is very particular about his meals,if it's not authentic Cambodian (or whatever the fare claims to be),he will let you know! (liberally of course). I still have not tried this place, but walk by it every weekend,and my wife always says "we gotta try out this place,like Pog says".And then when i talk to Pog and tell him i was in the area he says, "Did you try Phnom Penh yet". And as a joke I reply Phnot Nhyet!
So I better get my butt in this place sometime soon. I'll let you know what i think when
(not if) i go.

David Fairhead
{18 votes}
April 24th, 2007

~Feast or famine~  
 
"I do know of any Cambodian restaurants in Montreal."--Reuven De Souza.
~O~
Trust me, you aren't looking in the right places. The last time I ate decent Cambodian cuisine was when I was in Vancouver. That's a pretty sad statement if you're into Cambodian cuisine because what places I could recommend between Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal wouldn't be many...at least the ones that live up to the standards of what I consider passable. As a rule you'd be better off learning Cambodian cuisine than finding a good restaurant. Of course, that raises the other fundamental problem--finding a good reliable place that sells typical Cambodian ingredients. At least we have this place to fall back on if need be.

Pedro Eggers
{2 votes}
May 20th, 2007

Mouthwatering  
 
I do know of any Cambodian restaurants in Montreal. But if the reviews here are to be believed ( and I do ) I am marking Phnom Penh as a place to check out at the end of this month when I am in town. So I am going to try the red curry and the rice and shrimp dish. Thanks for the heads up dudes. Seriously... who does not love noodles!

Reuven De Souza
{8 votes}
May 10th, 2007

Pretty Good  
 
My daughter has introduced me to so many new restaurants this year and this place was one of them. this was the first time I had tried this type of food and actually have to say it was pretty good. As this was the only restaurant that I have tried serving this type of food I would have to say that this was a great place to go and I will be going back.

Louise Lacroix
{2 votes}
May 7th, 2007

Great First Impression!  
 
My wife and I went to eat at the Phnom Penh for the first time last weekend, spurred on by this article; we live very close. The red curry was very tasty, and not too spicy, but spicy enough to be satisfy. Both the food and service were excellent. Highly recommended.

Jack Bond
{9 votes}
April 25th, 2007

Phenonemal Phnom Penh Review  
 
My thanks to Simon Osborne for his fantastic review. Every week I check the food section hoping for an optimistic critic who will encourage me to try something new. This review not only convinced me to try Phnom Penh (I have plans to go this weekend), but it renewed my faith in the restaurant review itself. Beautifully crafted and succinct, with a touch of personality. I look forward to more reviews from Mr. Osborne. Great job!

Danielle Gregoire
{4 votes}
April 20th, 2007

Addictive Restaurant  
 
Since it opened, this place has become the favorite eat-in and take-out place for me and my fiancée. We love the salad, also try the rice and shrimp dish, it's amazing. Lang, the waitress, is very personable. There's nothing like the Phnom Penh when we're tired or cranky, it just elevates our mood.

Luc Comeau
{4 votes}
April 20th, 2007


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